The handbag that changed Fashion History: the very first Birkin to be auctioned by Sotheby’s Paris on july 10

An iconic object, a symbol of French elegance, and a milestone in fashion history — the very first Hermès Birkin bag, designed in 1984 especially for Jane Birkin, will be auctioned by Sotheby’s in Paris this July.

This historic black leather prototype, known as “The First Birkin”, will headline the highly anticipated Fashion Icons sale, held during Haute Couture Week in Paris. More than a fashion statement, it’s a piece of history — born from a chance encounter on a Paris–London flight between Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès. What started as a practical idea has since become the most coveted handbag of the 21st century.

A Unique Prototype, on Display in New York and Paris

The First Birkin stands out with seven unique design features, never repeated in subsequent models. With a non-detachable shoulder strap, closed metal rings, and a built-in nail clipper, this bag was originally intended to suit the needs of a busy young mother — and has evolved into a timeless icon of craftsmanship and luxury.

Before going under the hammer, it will be exhibited:

- at Sotheby’s New York, from June 6 to 12,

- and at Sotheby’s Paris, 83 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, from July 3 to 9.

Online bidding will open on sothebys.com on June 26, ahead of the live auction on July 10.

A Cultural Phenomenon with a Museum-Worthy Pedigree

Dubbed a “fashion unicorn” by Morgane Halimi, Global Head of Handbags and Fashion at Sotheby’s, the First Birkin continues to captivate collectors and institutions alike. It has been exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York in 2018 and at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2020, before returning to Paris in autumn 2024 for Excellence à la Française, and again in April 2025 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.

Jane Birkin kept the original bag for nearly a decade before auctioning it for charity in 1994. Since then, it has been privately held — until now, when it will once again take center stage on the global fashion scene.

Sotheby’s: The Global Benchmark for Exceptional Auctions

Founded in 1744, Sotheby’s is the world’s oldest and most prestigious auction house. Today, it leads global sales of art, jewelry, design, watches, and fashion collectibles. Its Handbags and Fashion department is the global leader in Hermès handbag resales, with more than 1,200 authenticated pieces — including rare and limited-edition Birkins — available now through Sotheby’s Buy Now platform.

Luxury and Exclusivity: A Shared Vision With Our Realty Group

At Côte d’Azur Sotheby’s International Realty, proudly affiliated with this legacy of excellence, we share Sotheby’s deep commitment to rarity, heritage, and refined taste. Whether it’s a Birkin or a Riviera estate, what matters most is the story, the quality, and the uniqueness of the piece.

Just like this extraordinary handbag, some homes transcend fashion — they have soul, presence, and enduring value. And like Sotheby’s, we believe these exceptional assets deserve to be presented with discretion, care, and international reach.

Looking for an exceptional property on the French Riviera?

We offer bespoke, confidential advisory — tailored for discerning global buyers and sellers, and aligned with the Sotheby’s tradition of excellence.